5 March 2023Is fashion going back to it’s essence?
Is fashion going back to it’s essence?
Not really but in an age of clickbait fashion (According to Vogue clickbait fashion tantalises the senses, elicits polarising reactions, attracts the internet’s mirth… before inevitably selling out in stores, buoyed by the free-of-cost publicity.) it are acts of reduction that stood out most during last weeks AW23 Fashion Weeks. (Think Loewe, Ann Demeulemeester, The Row (off course), Saint Laurent…)
Fashion has hybridised with mass entertainment as what is happening outside the shows is more Instagramable than what’s on the runway. That’s why lately so many fashion designers are stunting during their shows with outrageous concepts to cry for attention. More about this in the next post. I rather talk about the counter effect of this non stop circus. For the first time in years some designers brought back calmer, subdued sets and in one way or another, they go more attention (and respect) from the fashion incrowd & royalty.
The one who took the lead here, with the purest expression of this ‘back to the essence’ trend was Balenciaga’s Demna,usually the master of über-viral mega shows ( think Ukraine refugees, mud runways, UN inspired catwalks to name a few) opted for a linear minimal (but beautiful) catwalk stripped off all theatrics. It was clearly a radical change of tone due to the major scandal the brand was almost cancelled for (over two recent ad campaigns of the brand). Organised in the traditional but very symbolic Carrousel du Louvre for a change, in times when fashion shows were just fashion shows. Also the Balenciaga collection was the work of a true craftsman, in honour of the legendary Cristobal Balenciaga.